What makes a fabric good for embroidery
The best fabric depends on the kind of embroidery you plan to do. In general, good embroidery fabric has a stable, fairly tight weave that holds stitches without puckering, a surface that takes a needle easily, and enough body to stay taut in a hoop. Smooth, medium-weight woven fabrics are the most forgiving, especially for beginners.
Best fabrics for hand embroidery
Cotton
Plain, solid-colored cotton is the most commonly recommended starting point for surface (freehand) embroidery. Quilting cotton and similar plain-weave cottons are inexpensive, easy to hoop and available in many colors. Look for a tightly woven, medium-weight piece. Very thin cotton may need backing, and prints can compete with your stitching, so solids are simpler.
Linen and linen blends
Linen and linen-cotton blends are durable, crisp and have a classic texture, which many stitchers love. Natural slubs can make fine detail slightly uneven, so choose a smooth piece for delicate work. Medium-weight linen is a popular choice.
Muslin and calico
Muslin (called calico in some regions, though the terms are not always used consistently) is a plain, inexpensive cotton often used for practice. It can be embroidered, but lightweight muslin may need a backing layer to prevent puckering. It is a sensible choice for practicing stitches before moving to nicer cloth.
Fabrics for counted work
For cross-stitch and other counted thread work, you want a fabric with evenly spaced threads.
- Aida cloth is an open weave with visible squares, which makes counting easy and is a common beginner choice.
- Evenweave fabrics, including linen and some blends, have uniform threads and are used for finer counted work.
Other fabrics
- Wool. Wool and wool felt are used for crewel work and appliqué (for how wool differs from cotton, see which is better, wool or cotton). The fabric is thicker and holds thicker threads well.
- Silk. Silk can be beautiful but is slippery and delicate. It typically needs backing and careful handling.
- Polyester. You can embroider on polyester, and machine embroidery is often done on it. Use a suitable needle and consider a stabilizer. Hand stitching works too, though the fabric can slip and the needle may mark it.
Fabrics that are harder to embroider
Very thin, stretchy, slippery or loosely woven cloth is more difficult because it can pucker or distort. Knits are a common challenge. If you want to try, see whether you can embroider on knitted fabric.
Stabilizer and backing
Stabilizers support fabric during stitching. Tear-away, cut-away and water-soluble types exist, and the right choice depends on the fabric and design. Lightweight cotton, silk or any fabric that tends to pucker often benefits from a layer behind the stitching. Follow the product’s instructions.
Match fabric to needle and thread
The thread you use, the number of strands and the needle size should suit the fabric. Finer fabrics typically call for finer needles and fewer strands, while heavier fabrics tolerate bolder stitches. Test on a scrap.
Before you stitch, prewashing cotton or linen can prevent shrinkage and finishes from interfering later (see does cotton shrink in the wash and does cotton linen shrink). See how to prepare fabric before sewing.
Finishing the back
A tidy back keeps the piece neat. Options include trimming threads close, not carrying thread over long distances, and covering the back with a piece of fabric or felt. For hoop art, many people gather and secure the excess fabric around the hoop and cover it with felt.
Frequently asked questions
How do I embroider on muslin?
Hoop it taut, use a backing layer if the muslin is thin, and choose a suitable needle and fewer thread strands.
Can you embroider on polyester fabric?
Yes, though it can be slippery. Use a stabilizer and a needle suited to synthetics.
Is embroidery a cheap hobby?
It can be. A hoop, needles, thread and plain cotton are inexpensive, though costs rise with specialty fabrics and supplies.
How do I finish the back of my embroidery?
Trim loose threads, keep the back tidy, and cover it with felt or fabric if you are framing it in a hoop.