Short answer
Yes, you can embroider on knitted fabric. It takes a few adjustments because knits stretch and the loops can shift. The approach differs depending on whether you are working on a hand-knit piece, such as a sweater or hat, or on a machine-made stretch knit like T-shirt jersey (see types of cotton for T-shirts for what those shirts are made of).
Knit types and how they behave
Knitted fabric is made of interlocking loops, which is why it stretches (cotton knits are covered in is cotton stretchable). That structure is the opposite of a woven, where threads cross at right angles and hold still. If you want to understand the difference, our article on whether woven fabric is stretchy explains it.
For embroidery, the main concerns are:
- The fabric can stretch out of shape in a hoop.
- Stitches can sink between loops if the thread is too fine.
- Pulling thread too tightly can pucker the knit.
Hand embroidery on hand-knit items
Duplicate stitch
Duplicate stitch, sometimes called Swiss darning, follows the V-shaped loops of stockinette knitting with a contrasting yarn, so it looks like built-in colorwork. It is a good method for adding motifs to sweaters and hats.
Surface stitches
Other stitches, such as chain stitch, French knots and lazy daisy, are commonly used on knits to add outlines, texture and small flowers. Choose yarn or thread roughly matching, or slightly heavier than, the knitting yarn so stitches do not disappear.
Embroidering on stretchy jersey
Stabilizer
For machine-made stretch knits, a stabilizer helps keep the fabric from shifting and the stitches from puckering. Options include tear-away, cut-away and water-soluble types, and which suits you depends on the fabric and design. Many stitchers choose cut-away for stretchy fabric because it stays in place, but follow the stabilizer maker’s advice.
Hooping
Hoops can stretch or mark knit fabric. Some stitchers avoid hooping and work freehand, while others use a lightly applied hoop with stabilizer. If you do hoop, avoid pulling the fabric taut.
Needles, thread and yarn
- Use a blunt tapestry or darning needle on hand-knits to slide between loops without splitting the yarn.
- For machine-made knits, a ballpoint or stretch needle is often better than a sharp one because it passes between fibers.
- Match the weight of your thread or yarn to the fabric.
- Keep tension even. Too tight causes puckers, too loose causes snags.
Best stitches for knit
Stitches with some give, or that sit on top of the knit without pulling it, work best: chain stitch, French knots, lazy daisy, and duplicate stitch. Dense, tight fills that do not stretch may distort the fabric.
Can you cross stitch on knitted fabric
Cross stitch normally needs evenly spaced holes. On a knit you can use waste canvas (a temporary grid you stitch through and then remove) or follow the knit loops themselves. Follow the instructions that come with the waste canvas. For a counted-thread alternative, our guide to the best fabric for embroidery covers Aida and evenweave.
Common mistakes
- Pulling stitches too tight
- Using a sharp needle that splits yarn
- Using thread much lighter than the knit, so it sinks
- Hooping tightly and stretching the fabric
- Skipping stabilizer on thin jersey
Practice on a scrap or an inside area first.
Frequently asked questions
What fabrics cannot be embroidered?
Very loose, very thin or very slippery materials are the hardest to embroider, though stabilizer can make many workable.
What is the best stitch for knit fabric?
Chain stitch and duplicate stitch are popular for hand-knit pieces. For machine embroidery, follow your software and stabilizer guidance.
Can you cross stitch on knitted fabric?
It is possible with waste canvas or by following the knit grid.
What is the forbidden stitch in embroidery?
It is not a standard embroidery term, so check the source where you read it.