Good ironing is mostly about matching heat, moisture and technique to the fabric. Each fibre reacts differently to heat, so a setting that flattens cotton can scorch or melt a synthetic. This guide covers the basics that apply to nearly everything, then goes through the common fabric types one at a time.
Before you start: read the care label
The care label is the most reliable instruction you have for a particular garment. The iron symbol shows whether you can iron it and, by the number of dots, roughly how hot the iron can be: one dot means low heat, two dots medium, and three dots high. An iron with a cross through it means do not iron. A separate symbol may also mark that steam is not advised.
If the label is missing or unreadable, treat the garment as delicate: start on a low setting and test on a hidden area, such as an inside seam, before ironing the visible parts.
Sort by fabric and start with the coolest
Irons take longer to cool down than to heat up, so sort the pile by temperature need and work from cool to hot:
- Delicate and synthetic items first, on a low setting.
- Medium-heat fabrics such as wool or many blends next.
- Cotton and linen last, since they usually tolerate the most heat.
Sorting this way avoids waiting for the iron to cool and lowers the risk of ironing a synthetic with the iron still too hot from the previous load.
Damp fabric, steam and pressing cloths
Many fabrics release wrinkles more easily when they are slightly damp. You can iron straight from the wash while the garment is still a little damp, or lightly mist it with a spray bottle. Steam does a similar job, helping the heat relax the fibres without much pressure from you.
A pressing cloth, such as a thin piece of clean cotton or muslin, goes between the iron and the garment. It reduces the chance of shine on dark or delicate fabrics and gives some protection against scorching. Avoid using a synthetic cloth for this, since it can melt.
Ironing dark clothes, prints and embellished garments inside out also helps prevent shiny patches and protects surface details.
Ironing by fabric type
These are general starting points. The care label always takes priority.
Cotton and linen
Cotton and linen usually handle the highest heat of the common fabrics and respond well to steam and dampness. Because heat also drives shrinkage, see does cotton shrink in the wash before you wash and press a new garment. Linen in particular wrinkles easily and is often easiest to press while still slightly damp. Press rather than drag, and work in sections.
Polyester and other synthetics
Synthetics such as polyester, nylon and acrylic can melt or develop shiny marks under too much heat. Use a low setting, keep the iron moving, and consider a pressing cloth. Many synthetic garments need very little ironing if they are removed from the dryer promptly or hung to dry. Heat is also the main shrinkage risk for these fabrics, as explained in do synthetic fabrics shrink.
Viscose and rayon
Viscose is a regenerated cellulose fibre that wrinkles readily and is often best ironed on a low setting, inside out, and while slightly damp. Heavy steam can leave water marks on some viscose fabrics, so test first. If you want to know how the fabric behaves more generally, see how rayon feels and lyocell fabric care for a related fibre. See our detailed guide to ironing viscose fabric.
Wool
Wool (compared with cotton in which is better, wool or cotton) is generally ironed at a medium setting with steam, using a pressing cloth, and often from the inside. Press rather than slide the iron, because pushing and dragging can stretch or distort knits. Do not press hard on textured knits, since you can flatten the surface. If a wool garment has holes or damaged areas, see holes in woolen clothes before pressing over them.
Silk
Silk is delicate. Many silk garments can be ironed on a low setting from the inside or through a pressing cloth, but some labels advise against ironing or against steam because water can mark certain silks (see is silk a good summer fabric for more on silk’s quirks). Check the label and test on a hidden area.
How to iron a shirt step by step
A consistent order keeps you from re-wrinkling areas you have already finished.
- Collar. Lay it flat and press from the outer points toward the center, then turn it over and repeat.
- Yoke. Place the shoulder section over the narrow end of the board and press from the outside toward the center.
- Cuffs and sleeves. Unbutton the cuffs and press the inside first, then the outside. Lay each sleeve flat and press from the top down to the cuff.
- Front and back. Use the tip of the iron around buttons and the placket, then press the body panels.
- Hang it up straight away. A hanger keeps the shirt smooth while it cools.
Trousers, skirts and T-shirts
For trousers, turn the pocket linings out and press the waistband first, then lay each leg flat. Match the inner and outer seams if you want a sharp crease, or press flat if you prefer none. Hang them by the waistband or cuffs afterward.
For skirts, work around the waistband first and then the body, taking care with pleats, lining and zips. For T-shirts and knit tops, press lightly, preferably inside out, so you do not stretch the knit or flatten any print.
Ways to make ironing easier
- Hang clothes promptly after washing or drying so fewer wrinkles set in.
- Shake out each item before hanging and smooth seams by hand.
- Use a flat, well-padded board and keep the cord out of the way.
- Let steam do the work and avoid pressing hard.
- Keep sessions organized by fabric rather than by garment type.
Alternatives to ironing
If a fabric should not be ironed, or you simply want a quicker option, there are alternatives. A garment steamer can relax wrinkles on many fabrics without direct contact, though steam does not suit every material. Hanging a garment in a steamy bathroom can ease light creases. Smoothing a damp garment by hand and letting it dry flat or on a hanger also works for lighter wrinkles. As with ironing, check the label first.
Keep the iron clean
Residue on the soleplate, such as old starch or melted fibre, can transfer onto clean clothes. Check the soleplate before you start and clean it according to the iron’s instructions. Follow the manufacturer’s guidance on water type and descaling to keep steam working properly.
Common ironing mistakes
- Starting with the iron too hot for the fabric.
- Ironing stained clothes, which can set some stains. Treat stains first.
- Pressing hard on knits, which can stretch them.
- Leaving the iron resting on a garment.
- Skipping the test patch on delicate or unfamiliar fabrics.
Frequently asked questions
How do you iron delicate fabrics?
Use a low setting, a pressing cloth, and the inside of the garment when possible. Keep the iron moving, and test on a hidden area first.
What fabrics should not be ironed?
This depends on the garment, so rely on the label. Some synthetic, heat-sensitive or specially finished fabrics carry a do-not-iron symbol, and those are better steamed gently, if the label allows, or smoothed by hand.
What is the easiest way to iron without frustration?
Work from low heat to high, iron while slightly damp, use steam, and hang items straight away. These habits cut down on repeated passes.