No fabric is completely immune to pilling, but some are far less likely to develop those small fuzzy balls. Fibre type, yarn construction, weave and how you care for the garment all play a part. This guide covers which fabrics tend to hold up best and what to look for when shopping.
Why fabrics pill
Pilling happens when friction, such as rubbing under the arms, against a bag strap or in the wash, pulls loose fibre ends to the surface. The loose ends tangle into small balls. Whether those balls stay depends on the fibre. Strong fibres, particularly many synthetics, tend to hold the pills on the surface. Weaker natural fibres often let the pills break off, so they may be less visible over time.
Short fibres pill more readily because their ends poke out of the yarn more easily. Loose yarns, soft twists and open or brushed constructions also expose more fibre ends.
Fabrics that tend to resist pilling
These are general tendencies rather than guarantees, and quality varies within each category.
- Silk (woven). Silk is made of long, smooth filaments with few loose ends to catch and tangle.
- Linen. Linen comes from long plant fibres, often used in plain weaves. It tends to wrinkle rather than pill.
- Long-staple cotton. Cotton varieties with longer fibres, such as Pima or Egyptian cotton, especially in tight weaves like poplin or twill, hold their fibres in place better than short-staple cotton. See Supima cotton vs regular cotton and Egyptian cotton vs regular cotton for how fibre length changes the yarn, and combed cotton vs regular cotton for the effect of removing short fibres.
- Lyocell and modal. These regenerated cellulose fibres are smooth and long, and many fabrics made from them resist fuzzing, though results depend on the yarn and finish. See lyocell fabric care and is modal similar to cotton for more on these fibres.
- Worsted wool. Worsted yarns are spun from longer wool fibres and are smooth and tightly twisted, so tailoring-weight wool is generally less prone to pilling than fluffy, soft-spun knitwear.
Fabrics that pill more easily
- Polyester, acrylic and nylon (see is nylon fabric good or bad), particularly in knits, can pill because strong fibres hold onto the tangled balls rather than letting them drop away.
- Loose knits and fleece. Looped, open or brushed surfaces expose many fibre ends.
- Soft, lightweight blends that mix short fibres, or combine strong and weak fibres, often pill because the weaker fibres break and the stronger ones anchor the pills.
- Lambswool, cashmere and fine merino knits (see cashmere vs cotton) can pill, especially early in life, even though they are high quality. This is usually surface fibre that works loose and can be removed.
Does viscose pill?
It can, particularly in knits, in loosely spun yarns and in blends with synthetics. Viscose is also weaker when wet, so rough washing can contribute to surface wear. Tight weaves and good care reduce the risk. If you own viscose garments, our guide to ironing viscose fabric covers the gentle handling they need.
What is anti-pilling fabric?
Anti-pilling fabric is usually fabric designed or treated to reduce the problem. That might mean fibres chosen for length and smoothness, tightly spun yarns, a firm weave or knit, or a finishing process that removes loose fibre ends. Some synthetic fibres are also made to be less likely to pill. The term is not strictly regulated, so product claims are best treated as a hint to check, rather than a guarantee.
What to look for when buying
- A tight weave or dense knit. Hold the fabric up to the light, since gaps and looseness suggest more exposed fibre.
- Smooth, even yarns with a firm hand, rather than fluffy or hairy ones.
- Longer fibres, such as long-staple cotton or worsted wool.
- Fewer synthetic fibres in areas that rub, if pilling bothers you. A small amount of synthetic can add strength, though.
- Lightweight, closely woven bedding if you are buying sheets. See your product’s fibre description for staple length where available, and compare options in polyester vs cotton sheets and flannel vs cotton sheets.
- Care instructions that you are realistic about following.
Wearing and washing matter as much as fabric choice. Even good materials pill if they are rubbed constantly.
Why is my T-shirt pilling?
T-shirts are knits, often made from short-staple cotton or cotton-polyester blends, and they rub in high-friction places such as under the arms and at the sides. Frequent washing, hot water, tumble drying and washing with rough items such as jeans or towels all raise the odds. A soft, loosely spun yarn will also pill sooner than a firmer one. Our guide to the types of cotton for t-shirts explains which yarns and grades hold up best.
Care habits that reduce pilling
- Wash garments inside out to protect the surface.
- Use a gentle cycle and a cooler temperature where the label allows.
- Avoid overloading the machine, and avoid washing with abrasive items.
- Air dry when possible, since tumble drying adds friction.
- Avoid bags with rough straps rubbing against the same area repeatedly.
- Follow the label, since wool and delicate fabrics often have specific instructions.
Removing pills
A fabric shaver or a comb designed for the purpose removes pills from many garments. Use it lightly, on a flat surface, and avoid pulling pills off by hand, which can drag more fibre to the surface. On very delicate fabrics, test in a hidden area first, or consider asking a specialist. Removing pills will not damage a good garment when done gently, but it will gradually thin the surface fibres if overdone.
Frequently asked questions
Which fabric pills the least?
Smooth, long-fibre fabrics in tight constructions, such as woven silk, linen, long-staple cotton and worsted wool, generally pill the least.
Is pilling a sign of poor quality?
Not always. Some premium knits, such as cashmere, pill as loose fibres work to the surface. Pilling that appears quickly across a whole garment more often reflects loose yarn or short fibres.
Can a fabric be completely pill-proof?
Unlikely. Fabrics can be highly resistant, but friction can cause some pilling in almost any material over time.