Short answer
Cupro is not usually classed as a natural fabric. It begins with a natural material, cotton linter, but that material is dissolved and chemically re-formed into new fibers, which places cupro in the group of regenerated cellulose or semi-synthetic fibers. It belongs to the rayon family, alongside viscose, modal and lyocell.
What cupro is made from
Cupro is made from cotton linter, the short, fine fibers that stay attached to the cotton seed after the longer fibers are removed in ginning. Those short fibers are too short to spin into regular cotton yarn, so using them for cupro is often described as making use of a by-product. It is sometimes sold under the brand name Bemberg, a trademark associated with one major producer.
How cupro is made
In the cuprammonium process, the cellulose from the linter is dissolved in a solution containing copper and ammonia. The solution is pushed through very fine openings into a bath, where it solidifies into continuous filaments. These filaments are washed and spun into yarn. The process relies on chemicals, and responsible producers recover and treat them, but practices vary from one manufacturer to another.
Natural, synthetic or semi-synthetic?
Textile fibers are generally grouped as:
- Natural: taken from plants or animals with only mechanical processing, such as cotton, linen, wool and silk.
- Regenerated or semi-synthetic: made from natural raw material that is dissolved and re-formed, such as cupro, viscose, modal and lyocell.
- Synthetic: made from petrochemicals, such as polyester and nylon.
Cupro sits in the middle group. The raw material is natural, but the finished fiber is created by a chemical process, which is why it is not considered a natural fiber. For more on how this group relates, see our guide on whether viscose is breathable.
Which fabrics are 100% natural?
Fabrics woven from fibers that are used in their natural form are generally counted as natural: cotton, linen (from flax), hemp, wool, cashmere, silk and similar fibers. Note that a garment made of a natural fiber may still contain finishes, dyes or blended yarns, so the fiber content label is worth reading.
Cupro properties
- Silky feel and drape. Cupro is often compared to silk for its smooth, fluid hand.
- Breathable and absorbent. As a cellulose fiber, it handles moisture reasonably well and is often used for linings (compare other options in our guide to coat lining fabric) and warm-weather clothing.
- Anti-static. It tends to cling less than many synthetic linings.
- Biodegradable. As a cellulose fiber it is generally described as biodegradable, although dyes and finishes can affect this.
Disadvantages of cupro
- It is usually more expensive than viscose or polyester.
- It can be delicate, and many items call for gentle washing or dry cleaning.
- It wrinkles and can lose strength when wet, as other rayons do.
- It can be harder to find, and not all cupro is made to the same environmental standards.
- It is not a natural fiber in the strict sense, which matters to some buyers.
Cupro vs polyester
Cupro is plant-derived, more breathable and softer, while polyester is a stronger, cheaper petroleum-based synthetic that dries quickly and resists wrinkles. For dressy linings, scarves and blouses where comfort matters, cupro is often favored. For heavy use, polyester is usually the more durable choice. For a related comparison with another rayon, see polyester vs rayon.
Cupro vs cotton
Cotton is a natural fiber, generally more durable and easier to wash. Cupro is silkier, drapier and more delicate. Neither is simply better; it depends on whether you want an everyday workhorse or a smooth, fluid feel. If you are interested in the rayon family’s relationship to cotton, see rayon vs cotton.
Caring for cupro
Follow the garment label. Typically, that means cool, gentle washing (or dry cleaning), no wringing, no bleach, and air drying away from direct heat. Press with a low-heat iron if needed. Because cupro is delicate when wet, handling it gently helps it last.