Short answer
Yes, 100% cotton twill can shrink. Twill is a type of weave, and the fiber is still cotton, so hot water and high dryer heat can make it contract. Twill is often fairly dense and stable, and many twill garments are pre-shrunk, so the change is frequently modest. Untreated or raw twill fabric can shrink more, particularly on the first wash.
What cotton twill is
Twill is a weave pattern that creates diagonal ribs on the fabric surface. It is used for chinos (see fabric for men’s clothes), work pants, jackets, caps, uniforms and some upholstery. Denim, drill and gabardine are all twill weaves. Cotton twill is generally sturdy and has a slight drape, which is why it is popular for everyday wear.
Because twill describes the weave rather than the fiber, you also find twill made from blends or synthetics. The shrinkage question depends on the fiber content, so check the label.
Why cotton twill can shrink
- Cotton fibers relax with heat and moisture. The yarns were under tension during weaving and finishing.
- High dryer heat is commonly named as the main cause of shrinkage.
- Hot water can add to it.
- No pre-shrinking. Fabric that has not been pre-washed or mill-treated will usually shrink the most the first time it is laundered.
How much to expect
Guides give a range of figures, and they should be taken as rough. The general pattern is consistent: pre-shrunk twill usually changes only a little, while untreated twill can change more. A tightly woven twill tends to be steadier than a loose knit, but a hot wash and hot dry can still make a noticeable difference, so test with a care-label wash first. For the wider picture, see how cotton shrinks in the wash.
Cotton twill blends
A cotton-polyester twill generally shrinks less than 100% cotton because polyester resists shrinking, though the cotton part can still contract. If you wonder about a 60/40 cotton-polyester item in the dryer, expect less change than pure cotton but not zero, and use low heat. See whether synthetic fabrics shrink for why.
Pre-washing twill for sewing
If you are sewing with cotton twill yardage, wash and dry it the way you plan to launder the finished piece before cutting. This lets any shrinkage happen first, as described in how to prepare fabric for sewing. Some people repeat the process for fabric that came out noticeably smaller.
Caring for twill garments
- Wash cool or lukewarm on a normal cycle.
- Dry on low or remove while slightly damp and finish by hanging.
- Avoid repeated hot washes on caps and structured items, which can distort shape.
- Follow the label on chinos or workwear with special finishes.
FAQ
Is twill the same as denim? Denim is a type of twill, usually with dyed warp yarns. Corduroy is a related pile fabric; see is corduroy cotton or polyester.
Will pre-shrunk twill shrink at all? Possibly a little, especially with high heat.
Can I shrink twill on purpose? A warm wash and a moderate dry may reduce size, but do it gradually and check often.